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Revelstoke Rock Climbing: Chris Rubens Favorite Spots

Revelstoke Rock Climbing
Blanket Canyon and the striking Blanket Arete(10d)

Hi, I’m Chris Rubens, I moved to Revelstoke just over nine years ago. I came from Canmore and the Rocky Mountains in search of deeper more plentiful snow, which is exactly what I found. What I didn’t realize by moving here, is that it is one of the best summer spots in Canada. With infinite activities close to town and a great summer climate, it is hard to go wrong. I can easily say that, I came to Revelstoke for the winter but stayed for the summers. Out of the many activities that I like to do in the summer in Revelstoke rock climbing is one of my favorite. Wither it’s sport climbing at one of the many crags close to town or climbing one of Rogers Pass’s many alpine routes there is something for everyone.

As a skier I have always looked for something that compares to skiing in the summer. A lot of skiers turn to biking, which I do love, but I see more and more of us turning to climbing. I think the mental head game that is required to climb fills the void we feel in the summer. Overcoming fear and moving gracefully over the rock is something that I have become quite addicted to in the summer

While I really enjoy all of the climbing crags here are a couple of my favorite Revelstoke rock climbing areas around town;

 

Revelstoke Rock Climbing – Begbie Bluffs

You really can’t go wrong here with over 20 different crags and many different routes that vary from slab climbing to overhanging jugs. My two favorite Revelstoke rock climbing crags are Raptor Wall and Rabbit Wall. Raptor wall has a lots of climbs across a broad cliff ranging from 5.8 to 5.13. Highly recommended are Rain Dance, a (5.10a) traverse under the big roof, Honeycomb Kid (11a) just to the right. Forty Something(10b) is a great 2 pitch warm up(walk off or 2 25M rappels), Flashdance just to left is a 4 star 11a. There are some great 5.8’s and low 10’s scattered all over this wall.

Raptor wall has a ton of climbs across a broad cliff ranging from 5.8 to 5.13. Highly recommended are Rain Dance, a (5.10a) traverse under the big roof, Honeycomb Kid (11a) just to the right. Forty Something(10b) is a great 2 pitch warm up(walk off or 2 25M rappels), Flashdance just to left is a 4 star 11a. There are some great 5.8’s and low 10’s scattered all over this wall.

William Eaton getting in to the Raindance(10a)
William Eaton getting in to the Raindance(10a)
Myself fighting the pump on HoneyComb Kid(11a) Photo: William Eaton
Myself fighting the pump on HoneyComb Kid(11a) Photo: William Eaton

Rabbit wall has a pleather of climbs on really good rock. Octagon(10b) is an alltime Revelstoke rock climbing classic, Good Guys Wear Black(10b) a great slab to roof, head right at the roof for a fun 11b variation called Myxomatosis. Jack the Rabbit (10c) is a couple routes down to climbers left and will keep you thinking, while your down there give Jack’s Back(11b) a try for a fun balance crux. Looking for something a little easier, Fields of Clover is a great 5.9.

Emma Mains belays Jami Kruger up Good Guys Wear Black (10b)
Emma Mains belays Jami Kruger up Good Guys Wear Black (10b)

Revelstoke Rock Climbing – Upper Blanket Canyon

This is one of the more aesthetical places to climb in Revelstoke with some great climbs on really good rock. The Blanket Arete (2 pitch 10d) is a great climb with an outstanding position. Undercover (10C) is arguably are best 5.10 climb in Revelstoke, 30m of pure goodness! If you are up at the arete all the 11’s to the climbers left are fantastic and the 5.9 “Calm and Easy”, to the right is excellent especially if done in one long pitch. Looking for something a little harder, head down to the lower Canyon and jump one of the 12’s at Canyon Wall.

Christina Lustenberger belaying Jami up the start of Undercover (10c)

Jami in the face of Undercover, arguably the best 10 in Revelstoke.

Jami getting into the crux on Electric Blanket (11b)
Jami getting into the crux on Electric Blanket (11b)

 

Revelstoke Rock Climbing – Waterworld

This is a truly unique wall with all the climbs leading up from just above the water line of Lake Revelstoke. You have to rappel down this crag or access it from the bottom via boat. Climbing any of the great routes here above the sparkling clear water is  an incredible experience.

Rappelling down to the start of Waterworld.
Rappelling down to the start of Waterworld.
The view isn’t so bad from Waterworld
The view isn’t so bad from Waterworld
Emma on the top of first pitch of Pirates of Waterworld (10b).
Emma on the top of first pitch of Pirates of Waterworld (10b).

 

If you are looking for something a little more adventurous the Victor Lake Wall is highly recommend. If Alpine is the ticket to your heart, head to Rogers Pass – Sir Donald is a true Revelstoke rock climbing classic.

Greg Hill on the long NW ridge of Sir Donald
Greg Hill on the long NW ridge of Sir Donald

Big thanks to the Revelstoke rock climbing route developers and all the climbers working hard to put up new routes around here. Looking to get involved? Revelstoke rock climbing enthusiasts can join the Revelstoke Climbers Co-op.

For more info check Revelstoke Rock Climbing or grab the Revelstoke Rock Climbing Guide Book at:
Valhalla PURE Revelstoke
Tel: (250) 837-5517, e-mail: revelstoke@vpo.ca

 

 

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